Monday, March 10, 2008

Bali and Lombok

Only 15 days traveling around both islands and I feel completely different. Of course the “high” will fade away as I get back to my life here in Korea.


But what I’ve seen, what I’ve experienced, what I’ve felt, tasted and even smelled in Indonesia really got to me in the most unexpected way – nothing like my previous journeys in Thailand, China, Japan, Europe or even Latin America.

In order to be somehow concise and keep those memories alive, I’ll post parts of my trip every day this week. It’s my way of not forgetting those souvenirs too soon, and y’all are welcome to join!

So. Jeju-Seoul was a one-hour flight. Then Seoul-Tokyo lasted 2 hours. Finally, Tokyo-Denpasar took 8 hours during which I chatted with a charming landscaper living in Hawaii.

At 11pm on a Saturday night, Denpasar airport was relatively quiet. The heat and humidity crushed us as we paid our $25US Visa fee, valid for a month. An airport sign warned us against infantile sexual tourism, a very sad reality over there.



Patrick’s plane landed an hour later and we quickly hopped on the car taking us to the airport. The greetings were warm, and we had lots of fun reminiscing of that year we met in France back in 2005.

The hotel was breathtaking – with a nice swimming pool, vast garden and stylish room. Villa Kresna was expensive for Indonesia, but totally worth it. They served us breakfast on our terrace (fruit, fruit, fruit!), the sun gently warming us as we listened to the sound of countless unknown animals.


Our first stroll in Seminyak, hip city north of Kuta, was full of surprises! Hindu culture was embedded in everything we saw, or heard, while the sound of a developing country kept shouting at us “Please come in! Good price for you!”, “Hello! Taxi?”

The streets were filled with designer boutiques and expensive stuff. It took us a while to get used to the local currency – 10 000 Rupiah (rph) is roughly $1US. Looking around me, I instantly decided to send back to Korea everything I had brought with me… what was I thinking!? My backpack was filled with clothes, and I knew damn well I’d be purchasing loads of them here! Those little kids sold me my first pair of fisherman pants.



It seems like God manifested himself that day; as we were walking on the street, I found 3 000rph on the sidewalk. Later, a phallus carved in wood was also lying on the street. Fun way to start the trip, I tell ya!

We got a divine foot massage for almost nothing, enjoying some fresh mango juice while discussing our itinerary and taking several short naps. Our next stop at the beach was surprising – with huge crowds of tourists surfing and walking in the sand, as well as Balinese youth playing soccer. Sunset came a few minutes later while I was struggling with the strong waves and it was magnificent!



Dinner at Gado Gado was enough to make us believe that we were in heaven – set right on the beach, with the sight and sound of waves, Patrick and I enjoyed (among other things) delicious garlic prawns and chilly white wine. We talked for hours, trying to remake the world just like in those good days back in France.

We didn’t learn much about Balinese culture in Semyniak because, well, it is quite touristy and aristocratic. We were barely getting used to the sights of the architecture, the heavy heat and humidity, the constant sounds of cars, motorcycles, barking dogs and blabbering locals.

I was mostly impressed with the colorful and diverse Hindu statues all over the place, temples are on every street corner, and even funny ads like the one of a well-equipped man that read “Not for everyone” – along the line of the wooden penis found on the street, a reminder that sex here is not taboo at all!



Next we headed to Ubud and what would be my favorite place in Bali! Stucked in traffic in Depnasar, newspaper sellers would look trough the car’s tainted windows and offer us “Le Monde”… how did they know we were French just by looking at us!? I bought it to get rid of the guy, but another one came and when he saw we had already that one, he pressed against the window a copy of “Le Canard Enchaine”, right there, in the middle of Indonesia! What the...!?

Meanwhile an old man was braving traffic as usual with his little portable stand…





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